♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Becky makes Bridget salade niçoise, and Bridget and Julia bake make-ahead cheese soufflés.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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♪♪ -Salade niçoise is a perfect example of recipe evolution.

The original examples were just tomatoes, anchovy, olive oil, but over time, things like green beans and potatoes were added.

Tuna fish, hard-boiled eggs as well.

Well, it just goes to show you never know when you might get surprised by the same old thing.

Now, speaking of surprises, who better to show us an updated version of the salad than Becky?

-That's right.

You know, as you said, this recipe is constantly changing, so we had no problem making a few tweaks of our own.

-Sure.

-We're still going to keep all those great ingredients that tie the dish to the Mediterranean -- the tuna, the potatoes, the anchovies.

-Right.

-But we're going to make some changes that give some textural contrast and some temperature contrast.

-Fantastic.

-I have 6 cups of water here that I'm just bringing up to a boil, and we're going to cook 12 ounces of red potatoes.

These are perfect for niçoise.

So let's put 12 ounces into the boiling water.

And we want them to be nicely seasoned.

So I'm going to add a full 3 tablespoons of salt to this water.

-Okay.

-And I know that sounds like a lot.

But we want these potatoes to taste great.

So we're going to let these boil for 12 to 15 minutes until a paring knife slips in nice and easily.

-Okay.

Great.

-Alright.

So while those cook let's get going on the other components I've got 2 anchovy fillets here.

And a lot of times with the salad, you see the anchovies draped atop the salad.

-Yes.

Finish.

-Yeah.

But we wanted that briny, umami flavor to go all throughout the salad.

So we're going to actually add them to the salad dressing.

So these have just been rinsed up, 2 fillets.

I'm just going to mince them.

And now I have 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

Let's put those anchovies right in.

I'm also adding 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.

And that's actually double the amount that we would normally use.

-Yeah.

-We've got so many rich elements.

You know, we've got the tuna and the potatoes.

We really need a bright, punchy dressing.

-Right.

I love this idea.

-Yeah.

Now I have a tablespoon of minced shallot.

A teaspoon of fresh thyme.

Then I've got a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and then 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 1/8 of a teaspoon of black pepper.

-Great.

-I'll just give that a little whisk.

Alright.

Our dressing is ready.

Alright.

So this recipe is all about just all these little components that you're putting together.

-Mm-hmm.

-So easy.

The next one is tomatoes.

And I'm using grape tomatoes.

I want to be able to make this salad year-round.

-Fabulous.

-Grape tomatoes -- They're reliable even in the dead of winter.

They're flavorful.

They're a little bit sweet.

They're juicy.

So I'm just going to halve them long ways here.

Alright.

There we go.

So that was 5 ounces of these tomatoes.

And I'm going to take one more step, Bridget.

I'm going to season them with a little bit of sugar and some salt.

We're going to macerate them a little bit so they'll be super flavorful.

-Nice.

-So I've got 1/4 teaspoon of sugar and 1/8 of a teaspoon of salt.

I'm just gonna mix that up.

That'll get the juices flowing a little bit and it'll make sure that they're just perfectly seasoned for our salad.

-Nice.

Enhance that natural sweetness.

-That's right.

Alright.

It's been 15 minutes.

Let's see how the potatoes are doing.

Yep.

My knife goes in nice and easily.

Comes out easily.

-Okay.

-Ready to go.

Alright.

So I'm going to take these potatoes out, put them on my cutting board.

And I didn't drain the potatoes because I'm going to use this water to cook some green beans.

-Very smart.

-I've got 6 ounces of green beans.

The ends have been trimmed off.

And we're going to go ahead and cook those.

And the super-salty water is going to season the green beans.

But it's also going to help them soften quickly because the sodium displaces the pectin molecule.

-Yeah.

So it breaks it down easier?

-That's it.

They'll get nice and tender in about 5 minutes and they'll be nice and bright green.

-Fabulous.

-Alright, Bridget, it's been 5 minutes and the beans look great.

-Mm-hmm.

-See how they're still nice and bright green?

-They sure are emerald.

-That's right.

So I'm going to put them straight into some ice water.

This is called shocking.

-Yes.

-And this is going to set that nice green color.

And it's going to stop the cooking and cool them down.

-Very important.

-Yep.

So while the beans cool, I'm going to work on our potatoes.

-Okay.

-Now, remember, I told you we were going to have some temperature contrast... -Right.

-...here and some textural contrast.

Normally in a salade niçoise, you've got cold boiled potatoes.

-Sure.

-But we're going to take those nicely seasoned potatoes and I'm going to smash them, just pressing down on them with my chef's knife.

-Okay.

-Like this.

It's kind of fun to do actually.

-[ Chuckles ] -You want them to be about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick.

-Gotcha.

So don't go too crazy here.

-Right.

Just a nice little smash.

-Mm-hmm.

-So I have 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil heating up here over medium-high heat.

And I'm just going to fry these potatoes.

-What?

-These are so good.

You're going to make these.

I actually just made these yesterday.

My son ate the whole thing just as a snack.

You're going to make these even when your salade niçoise is not on the menu, these little crispy potatoes.

-I have never seen this in salade niçoise at all.

Or any salad really.

-It's so nice with the cool, creamy components to have a little warm, crisp potato in there.

-It's genius.

-Yeah, it's really good.

-Oh, you don't have to convince me on frying potatoes, Becky.

[ Laughs ] Oh, my goodness.

-Yeah.

Alright.

So these are going to take 2 or 3 minutes per side.

They're going to get nice and brown and crispy on both sides.

-Oh, my goodness, okay.

-Yeah.

-Can't wait.

-Yeah.

Alright, check these out.

They've been going for about 3 minutes on both sides.

I know.

-Come on.

-Nice and crispy.

-Oh!

-Alright, I'm just going to give them a nice little extra little sprinkle of salt because there's no such thing as too much salt on potatoes.

-No.

And the right time to season them is right after they come out of the pan.

-Right when they're hot.

Right?

-Yes.

-Okay.

Very good.

Our green beans are also nicely chilled now.

So let's take these guys out and put them beside the potatoes.

We just don't want them wet in the salad, so we want to drain them.

-Yeah, you created such a potent dressing.

You don't want to water it down.

-Yeah.

You don't want a watery salad.

-Got it.

-Alright.

Now we just have one more component, and that's our boiled eggs.

I'm going to do something a little bit different here too.

A lot of times in salade niçoise, you've got cold, hard-cooked eggs.

-Right.

-So we're going to do something a little different.

We're going to do some soft-cooked eggs.

They're going to have a nice jammy yolk.

And we're going to keep them warm in the salad too.

So we're going to have a couple of warm components.

-Sounds decadent.

-Yeah.

Really good, right?

-Nice.

-So here's that boiling water we just keep on using.

We saved it from the potatoes and the green beans.

We're going to put 3 eggs in.

They don't need to be covered.

It's fine.

-Covered with water?

-With water.

Right.

But we do want the lid, if you'll pop that on for me.

-You got it.

-So we're going to let these cook for 8 minutes and then we'll take them out and finish up our salad.

-Okay.

Great.

-Alright, it's been 8 minutes.

Our eggs should be just right.

Those nice jammy centers.

-Mm-hmm.

-So it's really important you want to shock the eggs just like we shocked the green beans.

We want to stop the cooking just for 30 seconds because we want to keep them warm inside.

-Right.

-Alright, so we'll let those eggs sit for 30 seconds, and then we'll peel them, and then we'll build our salad.

-Assembly time.

That's right.

Alright.

Our eggs boiled for 8 minutes.

And now they chilled for 30 seconds.

So they're still warm, which is exactly the way we want them.

-Nice and peeled.

-Oh, look at that yolk.

[ Both gasping ] A thing of beauty.

Alright, good stuff.

So you see we have enough ingredients here to make two really generous salads.

-Sure.

-And we do have a recipe for four on the website.

-Okay.

Great.

-Alright?

So I'm just going to start putting things together here.

And half of the green beans.

-Oh, my goodness.

-And then these warm potatoes.

Oh, yum.

Alright.

And now I have our beautiful macerated tomatoes.

-Lovely.

-See how nice and shiny they are?

The next component I'm going to add is some really nice jarred or canned tuna that's packed in oil.

-Okay.

-So we've got a 5-to-7-ounce jar and I just flake this apart a little bit with a fork.

It has a really meaty taste.

It's nice and silky.

It's delicious.

-Right.

-Alright.

Here's that beautiful dressing that we made.

I'm going to put 2 tablespoons on top of each salad.

-Mm!

-And now salade niçoise, we have to have niçoise olives.

-It's the law.

-That's right.

So I've got 2 tablespoons here.

So I'll put a tablespoon on your salad.

And then I also have a tablespoon of capers.

Briny, salty, pickly.

-Pickly.

-Yeah.

Alright.

Bon appétit.

-This is absolutely art.

Time to dig in.

I don't know where to go for first.

I'm going to go for a little bit of the tuna here.

-I'm going potato.

-Mm-hmm.

-Yeah.

-Mm.

-Mmm!

-Beautifully dressed.

-Mm-hmm.

-Let's go for that potato.

-Mm-hmm.

That potato is warm, crispy, and salty.

Oh, I'm going for the green bean.

-Mm.

Oh, yes.

This is beautiful.

Alright.

So jammy egg.

-Mm.

Oh, yeah.

-That is so upscale.

-Mm-hmm.

-It really -- -Upscale?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-You totally turned the salad on its head here.

In fact, I would eat every single component of this on its own with that dressing.

-Beautiful lunch or dinner.

Not hard to do.

-Mnh-mnh.

-Mm.

-And like you said, there are a few components to it.

But everything was really straightforward.

And what I -- what I really appreciate is that you took the time to cook every single thing to its best.

-Every ingredient is perfection, right?

-Yes.

-If I do say so myself.

-Mm-hmm.

-[ Laughs ] -Every single bite of this just gets better.

Thank you so much, Becky.

-Oh, it was my pleasure.

-And if you'd like to try this recipe at home, it starts by bumping up the flavors of the dressing with minced anchovies, lots of lemon juice, and a little Dijon mustard.

Smash and sauté red potatoes until they're nice and crisp and cook the eggs until the yolks are still soft, silky, and jammy.

And don't forget to compose all the parts of the salad so it looks absolutely gorgeous.

So, from "America's Test Kitchen," the refreshed, the beautiful salade niçoise.

Mm.

I'm going back in for the potato.

-Yeah, I don't blame you.

♪♪ -Making a soufflé is often thought of as some high-level culinary challenge that only experienced cooks can tackle, when actually, they're incredibly easy to make.

And today, Bridget's going to break down the soufflé for us and make it foolproof.

-Yes.

Cheese soufflé.

-Mmm!

-We're using two kinds of cheeses.

This first one is Comté.

-Mm.

-So it's a French alpine cheese, very similar, some say it's the same as Gruyère.

But basically you think of this as a French Gruyère.

So I'm just going to grate this on the holes of my box grater.

This is about 3 ounces.

-Using the large holes.

-Yes, because it's a good melter.

Alright.

So we're going to leave this here.

But I do want to mention the other cheese we are using.

We're using Parmesan.

-Hmm!

-Parmigiano-Reggiano if you can get your hands on it.

Otherwise a really good domestic Parmesan will work here.

But this is an ounce, and we finely grated it because Parmesan is not as great of a melter as the Comté, but it adds tons of flavor, lots of savory flavor, and it's a very dry cheese, so it's not going to weigh down the soufflé.

-Aha.

-That is a theme.

Not a lot of liquid going in here.

Alright.

So let's get over here to this stovetop work on our Béchamel base.

So I've got 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter just melting over medium heat here.

And I'm going to add 3 tablespoons of flour.

This is all-purpose flour.

-Okay.

-A little bit of salt, 1/4 teaspoon, just table salt, and a pinch of nutmeg.

I'm just going to stir this together, get that flour to incorporate the butter here.

And I'm cooking it really just to lose the raw flavor of that flour.

Only takes about a minute or so.

Not looking for any substantial coloring.

-Mm-hmm.

Right, because you want it to be a relatively white sauce and white soufflé.

-Correct.

Alright.

So now that smells great.

The flour just starts to smell a little toasty.

-Mm-hmm.

It smells good.

-I'm going to move over to the dairy here.

I've got a cup of whole milk here.

I'm going to only add a half at a time here.

So 1/2 cup of milk.

-Mm-hmm.

-Just adding that in and chasing around any of those lumps.

Alright.

So now it's one giant lump.

That's alright.

We're going to add the rest of the milk.

Gradually whisk that in.

So I think I've chased most of the lumps away.

Now I want to bring this up to a simmer.

It's going to start to bloop.

I love that, when it starts to bloop.

-Me too.

-It's really going to start to thicken too.

That's only going to take a minute or two.

-Okay.

Mm, I see the bloops.

-So you can see the blooping and the bleeping and the thickening is all happening in there.

Happens very quickly.

So I'm going to take this off the heat.

Just scooch it.

There we go.

It's a technical term.

Now I'm going to add in our two cheeses, the Parmesan, and of course, our little French Comté.

-Mmm.

That looks delicious already.

-And I'm going to whisk this in.

You see it's a little bit more of a thick Béchamel as opposed to a Béchamel sauce.

-Mm-hmm.

-And that residual heat is going to be enough to melt that cheese.

We don't want to put this back over the heat and risk breaking the cheese.

Otherwise you might get a greasy soufflé.

And we don't want that.

-And this is what gives the soufflé structure.

-Exactly.

Alright.

That is looking great.

-Beautiful.

-I'm going to take this over to a big bowl here and plop this right in because we're done with all the cooking.

-Mmm!

-So now we're going to turn this Béchamel, this -- It's actually closer to a Mornay at this point... -Yeah.

-...because it has cheese in it into our soufflé base.

And we've got 3 large egg yolks.

I'm going to plop those in.

There we go.

I'm going to whisk like heck at this point.

I don't want those egg yolks to start to cook.

There we go.

And then 2 teaspoons of freshly minced parsley.

And that's just for a little bit of color and a little bit of herbal grassiness.

-Mm-hmm.

-Alright.

This looks great.

-It does look good.

-Let's just get some chips.

[ Both laugh ] Alright We're going to leave that for a moment and get on to the egg whites.

So, I've got 3 large egg whites here.

Just happened to get them from those 3 large egg yolks.

-Aha.

-Pretty handy.

I'm going to add them to the standing mixer.

A little bit of cream of tartar.

This is just 1/4 teaspoon.

It's a dry acid, powdered acid.

So let me just bring the bowl closer to the beater here.

I'm going to start this on medium low.

Just want to break up those egg whites just a little bit.

Get it started.

That's going to take a minute.

-Okay.

-Alright.

So you can see that the eggs are getting a little foamy there.

-Mm-hmm.

Breaking it up.

-That's right.

So I'm going to increase the speed to medium high now, let it go for about 2 minutes.

I'm looking for stiff peaks.

Alright, so let's take a look.

-Snowy peaks.

-Snowy peaks.

Yeah.

When -- When you start to see the trail made from the mixer, that's a good indication that you're probably pretty close.

Let's see how we're going there.

-Ooh, perfect.

-Pretty stiff peaks there.

-Yeah.

Nice and glossy.

-Yes.

Exactly.

Still glossy.

That's really important.

You don't want to overbeat this even though we have that cream of tartar in there.

You want to make sure you're not overbeating it because you'll get a cottony, dry, split soufflé.

Alright, so we don't want to add all the egg whites to our very, very thick base here.

-Yeah.

-Because if we piled it all in there, all the egg whites would deflate.

So we need to temper it just a wee bit.

So I'm going to add 1/3 of the egg whites here.

-Now, this is the trickiest part of making a soufflé.

It's not that hard.

-It really is.

-It's incorporating the whipped egg whites for the lift into the Béchamel, which has all the flavor.

-Exactly.

And I'm just going to use my whisk to kind of mix it in at this point.

-I love it.

-So now it starts to look light and fluffy.

It's closer to the texture of the egg whites.

And that's exactly what we want.

And now I'm going to use my rubber spatula to just gently fold it in.

A lot of people have different methods.

I always like to go kind of down the center and then swoop and scrape the bowl.

The idea is to not deflate the egg whites.

We don't want to have white streaks.

Alright.

So that looks pretty darn good.

Alright.

So let's get our six 4-ounce ramekins ready.

So I've got some vegetable oil spray.

And you really want to spray, spray, spray these a lot.

And this is going to pay off later on too when we go to unmold it.

But don't skimp on the spray here.

Alright.

So those look great, the ramekins.

And now it's time to divide the batter evenly.

You can use a ladle, of course, to portion it, or you can use a small measuring cup.

-Oh, I like the measuring cup.

-Me too.

You can get it closer to your ramekins.

Alright, so just pour this in.

And if I need to come back, I will.

And I'll clean up any of the tops there.

Almost like pancake batter.

-Mm-hmm.

They look perfect.

-Alright.

So if you wouldn't mind grabbing that big kettle of boiling water for me.

-Here you are.

-Thank you.

We're going to get ready to bake these.

I'm just going to clear a little space here.

I just need to add enough water so it's about halfway up the sides of the ramekin here.

-Perfect.

-And this water bath really is the only way to go when it comes to cooking soufflés.

It's going to slow down that heat from the outside.

It can't get any hotter than boiling water, right?

So 212 is the max there.

And it's going to allow the soufflés to really cook evenly.

So this is going to go into a pretty moderate oven for soufflés -- 350 degrees.

-Oh, yeah.

-We're not looking for that kind of cartoon chef's toque hat.

Big giant soufflé.

These are going to puff just a little bit and that's fine.

So I'm going to leave them in there until the internal temperature is about 170, maybe up to 175.

And that's only going to take 14 minutes.

-Oh, that's not long.

Oh-ho-ho!

Bridget!

-[ Laughs ] Come here, little puffs.

Oh!

-Look at those!

-These just puffed just enough.

I told you they weren't going to get sky high.

-No, I love that crisp edge around that guy, though.

-That's right.

Now, I do want to check that these are the right temp.

So I'm looking for somewhere between 170, 175.

-Okay.

-I like to go in through the side.

-Right.

You don't want to mar that top.

-That's right.

And we've got 173, 174.

Perfect.

So let's get these out.

I always like to have the towel nearby.

-Mm-hmm.

-There we go.

Put them on a wire rack.

Lovely.

Okay.

We need to let these cool down completely.

And that's going to take anywhere from 30 to 40 minutes.

So 30 minutes, maybe up to 40.

-Bridget, those don't look so good.

-They've shrunk.

-They do.

-It's kind of like my ego.

It was overinflated for a little while, and now it's shrinking.

No, this is -- this is totally fine.

This is what they're supposed to do.

They chilled.

They're relaxing.

We're not going to serve them at this point.

-Okay.

-I do want to get them out of the ramekins.

And this is why that super spraying of the ramekins is really important.

So you just have to be a little confident about this.

Going to tilt this out into my hand and then whack it a couple of times.

There we go.

Oh!

-Nice and clean.

-Mm-hmm.

-Yeah.

So now I'm going to put this on a rimmed baking sheet that's been lined with some parchment and sprayed lightly.

And I'm going to do this to the rest of these.

-Can I help?

-I would love that.

-Alright.

Alright.

-Alright.

So we're done with the ramekins at this point.

But these for right now, we want to chill them down a little bit before we move on to the next step.

So I'm going to cover them tightly with plastic wrap.

-Make-ahead soufflés.

-That's right.

-Who'd have thunk it?

-We want to cover these tightly.

We're going to put these in the fridge.

We want to leave them in there for at least an hour to chill down before we move on to the next step.

But these will keep in the fridge for three days.

-Wow!

-Yeah.

So talk about being a hero, you want a light lunch, a nice light supper?

Just pop one of these out of the fridge and cook them for yourself.

-Very cool.

-It's baking time.

-Mm-hmm.

-They're well-chilled.

Kept them in there for an hour.

But again, the great thing about this is when it comes time to bake, say that there's only two of you eating.

-Hmm.

-Well, we can just take two of these right off.

I'm going to just transfer this to a smaller sheet pan here, again, lined with parchment, greased the parchment.

The rest can go back into the fridge up to three days.

I'm going to bake these two just for you and me.

This time it goes into a little bit of a hotter oven.

It's going to puff back up just a little bit, and it's going to get super golden brown.

So this is going to go in there, 400 degrees, for about 15 minutes, maybe up to 18.

-Oh, Bridget!

-Ho-ho-ho-ho-ho-ho!

Take a look at that.

-Okay.

That was quite the transformation.

-Mm-hmm.

They're a little bit puffed.

They puffed up again.

-Oh, and that browning around the top edge.

-The browning is where it's at.

-That is gorgeous!

-And the smell -- it's that toasty cheese.

-Mm-hmm.

-Oh, my goodness.

Alright, I do need to get these off of the pan though.

-This would be a star-studded addition to a dinner party.

-Yes.

Look at that.

-I mean, pulling these out?

Oh-ho-ho-ho!

-Five star, Julia.

There we go.

-Gorgeous.

-And, you know, this is just a suggestion, but I thought you could use some vegetables... -[ Laughs ] -...so this -- you can just have a nice side of dressed greens.

And before we tuck into these, I just want to show they're a little bit jiggly, a little bit wobbly.

-Oh, yeah.

-Yeah.

See, that's the mark of a great soufflé.

It's barely holding on.

Just like me.

-[ Laughs ] -One last little bit here.

-What are those?

-These are pickled mustard seeds.

-No kidding.

-These are absolutely amazing.

So I'm just going to sprinkle some over your plate so you can catch some every once in a while.

-You can find the recipe for these pickled mustard seeds on our website.

-Alright.

-I'm going ri-- I'm going to pull open right to the center.

I want to check out the texture.

-Love it.

-Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho!

Perfect!

-Look at that.

-Oh, that texture right there.

-See, it's a little bit creamy on the inside there from the Béchamel as well.

-What a wonderful texture.

Very smooth, ethereal, kind of dissipates on your tongue as you eat it.

That's the hallmark of a great soufflé.

A little bit of the outside.

-The crust is my favorite part.

-Mmm!

It's like soufflé meets popover.

-And -- And frico.

-Yes, yes.

-Mm-hmm.

-Oh, these are delicious.

-I mean, talk about a great little lunch.

-Mm-hmm.

And the little pop of the pickled mustard seeds?

I really like that.

-Yeah.

-Oh, Bridget, these are amazing.

-You like?

-Yeah.

Thank you for showing me how to make this.

-Absolutely.

-If you want to make these incredible make-ahead cheese soufflés, start by using two cheeses, Comté and Parmesan.

Bake the soufflés in a water bath, then refrigerate for at least an hour.

And finally, bake again just before serving to puff and brown.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a completely re-engineered recipe for make-ahead cheese soufflés.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with select episodes and our product reviews at our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv.

It'd be dangerous to have these in the freezer.

-Visit our website to sign up for our free e-mail newsletter, with more revolutionary recipes and the stories behind 25 years of test kitchen discoveries -- americastestkitchen.com/tv25.

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-Plugrà European-style butter was created for all chefs, cooks, and bakers, slow-churned with 82% butterfat for a smooth texture and more pliability for flaky crusts.

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Our fleet of small cruise ships explore American landscapes, seaside villages, and historic harbors where you can experience local customs and cuisine.

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-The Breville Paradice 9 food processor -- prepping for daily and future meals happens with a wide-feed chute and multiple ways to dice and slice, all in a compact footprint.

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-Smithey -- cast-iron and carbon-steel cookware, thoughtfully crafted, made with passion, used with passion.

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